The Ride
Only a short 11 mile hop today over a 300m hill to Rosebery.
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We're now well and truly into Western Tasmania, mining territory, bad weather, and people who don't like Greenies (well according to the movie, the last Tasmanian Tiger).
The Camp Site - Rosebery Cabin and Tourist park
Officlal Web Site
The day of arrival was nice weather - until the evening.
When I arrived here, I enquired about a camp kitchen. The guy in charge told me I couldn't use the camp kitchen as it was intended for miners who were staying at the camp site and it was full of their stuff. So I was very disappointed as it's less convenient (and weather dependent) using my stove by the tent.
On my last day there I discovered there was another camp kitchen tucked away in the far corner of the site that anyone could use. The man never told me and left me to cook in the rain outside my tent for 2 days.
Tent Woes
The first night the weather closed in, as it often does in Western Tasmania, and it rained, and rained and rained. It rained so much, my tent started to drip, on the inside. I fell asleep. By the time I woke up, I was in a lake of water inside the tent, with the sleeping bag and everything soaking wet.
I think the tent has paid the price for sitting in the Australian sun too long. The silicon tent layer had been damaged by UV and was ineffective. Water was coming right through the fabric, not the seams. For the record, it was a Black Diamond Lighthouse Tent. I can't recommend a tent like it or with the same lining, it's useless for serious camping.
The Town - Rosebery
A larger town than anything I've seen since Deloraine. Cafes, Servos, Supermarket, everything you need. But just a big mine and nothing to see, except Montezuma Falls nearby.
Gotta love Australian branding.Courtesy of the BP Servo where I was hunting for Shellite.
The High St in Rosebery. The view back towards Tullah, that's the hill I climbed over.
The People
Actually the owners of the camp site were well meaning and helpful, despite not telling me about the camp kitchen. They let me re-pitch the tent under a car port, and I was able to get into one of the Miner's cabins for the last night, which helped me and the tent dry out a bit. When I finally left, they saw me off!
Also for the first time, I met a lot of other cycle tourists here. A British girl from Birmingham, an American couple and a guy from Germany who was having a lot of trouble with punctures. We were all heading in different directions though, I didn't expect to see them again. We all had a good chat and shared experiences in the public camp kitchen.
Montezuma Falls
The reason I stopped at Rosebery was to visit these falls. They are very famous in Tasmania as the water drops 110m.
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The ride was a sealed road climb up a quiet lane, big hill of 300m or so, followed by a trail along an old mining railway line. The trail is very rough in places. It rained all day and I got very wet.
Today was the day I discovered my blue Gore-Tex coat wasn't actually waterproof. Damn that coat, I was stuck with it for all of Australia now. It cost £150 back in the UK, a TK Maxx special reduced from £600. I could have got a better job from a £5 plastic coat :) I did actually get a refund for it later and bought a much better new coat instead (also Gore-Tex, which seems to work).
There is this scary foot bridge just by the falls. It's called that because it's as wide as your foot. And it sways all over the place. Realistically only 1 person can go on there at once.
What was particularly scary was, during taking this photo, if I dropped the phone, slippery and wet as my hands were, it was gone. There was no way I could get down to that canopy let alone find a phone in there.
It's a shame the weather was so bad, but I'm glad I got to the falls.
The Ride
I had to accessorise the bike for Australia Day!
Looking back at Cradle Mountain, goodbye.
After the short and punishing rides of late, today was a much longer but mostly downhill ride to Tullah. Actually when I set out I was planning to go to Rosebery but there is a 300m+ hill between the two. So I decided if I was tired at Tullah I would stop there.
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Woo hoo! 46.2 mph, the fastest I've ever been on a mountain bike, and pretty scary.
The ride starts off with a tough hill once back on the main road out of Cradle Mountain. After that it really was very pleasant indeed.
The arrival into Tullah
The Camp Site - Lake Rosebery at Tullah
This is a free camp site on the shore of Lake Rosebery. The nearest facilities are at the Servo where there is plenty of food, drinking water and a toilet. You have to ask the lady in the servo for use of the toilet. (see "Characters")!
Another chance to build a camp fire here. There were only 2 other campers here, they soon were huddled round keeping warm in the chilly night air.
The Town - Tullah
There is a shopping area with cafe and small supermarket, as well as the Servo. That's it in Tullah, all you need as a cycle tourist.
The Characters
The lady in the Servo wins here. When I arrived, she was furious. As I browsed the groceries, she was venting to anyone who came in and would listen.
Her story was, she went to the Online Access Centre (a place for Internet access in rural Australian towns that is either free or very cheap and run by the government or volunteers). She walked in at 6pm, and the guy who was minding the store was the only one in there. Sat behind a computer desk, he suddenly zipped up his pants in panic as she entered.
She surmised he was observing Porn. Not nice, but then he told her the place was closed. Although she went at 6pm and it closes at 7pm, the guy chucked her out. So she was still steaming the next day, and was relishing the moment he turned up to get petrol.
The Ride
Debbie, who I met at Gowrie Park, was kind enough to give me a ride to Moina, the top of the big hill heading towards Cradle Mountain. That cut out a 500m hill climb (actually I am not sure exactly how much, but it was a massive hill).
So starting from Moina it was around a 300m steady climb up to Tasmania's most famous mountain and National Park, Cradle Mountain.
I had forgotten to switch on the cycle computer today so it was 10.8 miles and I didn't go fast.
It was fascinating as the landscape changed in front of my eyes. At the bottom of the hill near Moina it had been all rain forest, ferns. Now it was becoming alpine scrub, and many of the trees were dead.
The Camp Site - Discovery Holiday Parks, Cradle Mountain
Official Web Site
After arriving at the Park, I had a choice of putting up the tent or using this "Alpine hut" for the same price, $20. Of course I'd go for the hut. Temperatures at night were going to be very cold up here. That's a serious consideration if you are cycle touring. A sleeping bag that does for the rest of Tasmania won't do here, even in the middle of Summer.
Inside it was basically a large shed with minimal insulation on the roof only. There are 3 beds and just enough room to squeeze the bike in.
The Discovery Park has a shop with essentials in. I was getting ready for western Tasmania with a good supply of "Space food", stuff you can empty into a pan and heat.
It really was getting cold in the evening. There is a superb camp kitchen complete with real fireplaces. I took on the job of chief stoker and kept the fire going all night.
That night the temperature dropped to 6C, and I felt it. However Mole Creek had also dropped to that temperature so I wasn't too concerned.
Standard breakfast the next morning. Porridge, honey from the farm at Chudleigh, and dates, with a cuppa.
The facilities are very good here, although showers you have to pay for, and are time-limited.
The Hike to Cradle Mountain
There are many great walks in this National Park. The one most people do is to go around Dove Lake and up to Cradle Mountain. I took an age to get going and didn't think I had enough time, but started out.
Dove Lake is very serene. Cradle Mountain can be seen as the peak in the right background.
Heading up now, a steady climb at first, easy going
There are various lakes to overlook along the way.
The one above is called Wombat lake for obvious reasons!
Now at Marion's lookout. A great view over Dove Lake. I was told that on average the weather is clear only 1 day out of 5, so I was lucky.
I did indeed run out of time. The last part wasn't far but I would miss the last shuttle back to the visitor centre if I continued.
This is called the Kitchen Hut.
Heading back down now, I saw many trees, Australis Candalis, which I have several of in my back garden. I didn't know they were native to Australia.
The path down was precarious at times.
Back at Dove lake, can I get to the last shuttle? Walking as fast as I can.
Phew I made it back with minutes to spare. What a lovely walk, and a lovely day out. I'm very glad I took time to hike occasionally, it breaks up the monotony of cycling very well.
The Town
Cradle Mountain has a visitor centre and some other small attractions. People go there mostly for the walks, lakes and mountains. There is a shuttle bus that goes to Dove lake, or you can walk there but it's a very long way.
The Characters
In the camp kitchen, where so many conversations take place, I met a very interesting ranger who worked in central Australia for a decade with the Aboriginals. He told me many of their ways. I was interested how they dealt with deadly snake bites.
Their method is to shut down the body. Stay absolutely still for 24 hours. This way, he told me, their body can naturally remove the poison from the lymph glands. He says it would work for us too. It was a concern for me as mobile signal often did not work and I do not carry anti venom.
